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Showing posts from January 26, 2014

Filleting the interior

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I fit the breast hook this morning, beveling the lands and trimming the ears that will serve as lands for the inwale.  Seemed to go pretty well.  Thinking about the near term order of battle, i realized I can't even think about painting until the interior seams are filleted, so I mixed up some epoxy peanut butter and got about it. I ended up using 6 pumps of epoxy, thickened with three heaping putty-knife loads of fairing beads per pump.   A messy job, and I have a headache from being that close to live epoxy for the better part of three hours.  Nice to get that done.

Inwale parts (continued)

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I worked on a lot of little bits today, as well as re-checking the inwale layout.  I also realized that I had to get the thwart ledgers (risers?) installed before putting on the inwales, else I'd have some difficult clamping challenges. I glued up the breast hook yesterday, epoxy with two reinforcement lag bolts as splines (threaded into one half, heads cut off and seated into holes on the other half.  I set up a clamping jig to help assure a tight joint.  The result looks good and seems to fit the bow profile nicely, at least before the fitting and beveling necessary before glue-up. Last night I finally figured out the dimensioning of the daggerboard case and the center thwart.  The case is dimensioned to the distance between the underside of the center thwart and the keelson.  The distance is established by setting a reference stick between the points where the the thwart ledgers will be set and measure the distance.  It was fooling around with this that brought me to t

Inwale parts: Jig for inwale blocks

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I layed out the inwale spacing today, epoxied the two halves of the breast hook blank together, created blanks for the quarter knees (Alaskan yellow cedar) and made the spacer blocks. I'll sand and pre-finish these parts bright before installing them.  I made a jig that allowed drilling a hole dead-center, then cutting it to lenght (1.5 inches) with the dozuki thin-kerf razor saw. The jig took an hour or so, and turning out the parts took a half minute or so each.  I ripped off three dozen (I'll need 22 good ones). The quarter knees are made from the cedar also, cut on the diagonal into a knee-like-shape.  I'll soften the edges on a piloted round-over bit, and fit them to the profile of the intersection of the topsides and the transom. The breast hook is mitered on the centerline, and fit to the inside of the planks.  It has ears projecting along the inner rail that are the thickness of the spacer blocks, and on which the inner rails land.   I

An (in)wale of a job

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The boot stripe is done ... on to the interior I've settled on a layout for the inwales.  They will be open, that is, with two continuous rails sandwiching blocks alternating with spaces.  Oarlock pads are 4 inches of inwale length each, and the quarter knees and the breast hook are 7 inches each.  I built a simple spreadsheet to allow me to find the appropriate component lengths by trial and error.  I'll use this table to cut and layout pieces (possibly slightly modified according to circumstance). Inwhale layout Block length space length 1.5 3.75 open inwhale components length number total Quarter knees 7 1 7 n blocks 1.5 2 3 n+1 spaces 3.75 3 11.25 Oarlock Pad 4 1 4 n blocks 1.5 3 4.5 n+1 spaces 3.75 4 15 Oarlock Pad 4 1 4 n blocks 1.5 6 9 n+1 spaces 3.75 7 26.25 breast hook 7 1 7 calculated inwale length 91 measured inwale length 91