Shearwater to Bottleneck Cove to Bishop Cove
|Ivory Island light station at the corner of Seaforth Channel and Finlayson Channel|
The route north from Shearwater takes you west towards the mouth of Seaforth Channel, and as the name implies, it leads to the sea. The first sheltered waters after leaving Shearwater are 15 or so miles away, and Seaforth has a reputation.
Ivory Island is the choice point. If you don't like what you're experiencing, tuck into the channel that leaves Ivory Island Light to port, and work your way up through the protected Reid Channel. It is actually quite an attractive passage, but requires some close navigational attention (and tidal awareness). If the seas are tame, leave Ivory Island to starboard and swing north in a wide arc into Finlayson Channel. This particular morning, Odin was elsewhere and we enjoyed a favorable tide that brought us to the mouth of Finlayson on kindly seas -- glassy, even, with but a hint of ocean swell.
We passed by Klemtu, a Tsimshian First Nations village that has fuel, provisions, and is served by BC Ferries. Klemtu is creating a niche for itself as an outdoor recreation destination (kayaking and sport fishing, laced with an agreeable exposure to First Nation culture). There is a Tsimshian Big House here that can be toured for a fee.
|Sailing on a broad reach northbound on Finlayson Channel|
|Bedlam at anchor in Bottleneck Cove as we entered|
|Sneaking past Bedlam in Bottleneck Cove at 0430. |
We were mostly last to arrive and first to leave every anchorage.
|sunrise near the top of Finlayson Channel|
|Making breakfast in the cabin|
We met Peter and Connie, a couple from Victoria who had sailed all over the pacific in several boats over many years, and who knew the fellow in Victoria from whom I purchased the majority of the charts for the trip. Small world.